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Cristal Room Buzz
The Cristal Room, Maison Baccarat, Paris, is a great location for a sexy dinner and if it's warm weather, reserve a table on the tiny terrace. The other night, a guy obviously thought this was a good idea. At the end of dinner (they'd ordered the Menu Decouverte, bien sur, a bottle of Taittinger champagne and a bottle of red wine, it turnd cool. They moved to a corner table inside. Suddenly Romeo was down on his knee and you know the rest. But guess what? Readers, she refused.
The Cristal Room, located in the former Hotel de Noailles is sheer opulence, revised and corrected in Alice in Wonderland style by Philippe Starck. As soon as you enter, the red bordered carpet lights up and you're so through the looking glass.
The restaurant is located in the salon, where socialite Marie-Laure de Noailles, former owner of the mansion, entertained the likes of Cocteau and the Windsors. Starck combines antiques, gilt, bare bricks, ivory satins and silks and creates an extraordinary effect. Maybe Mr Reject should have booked the Salon Rose (which leads to the tiny terrace with the largest mirror in Paris), complete with pink ceiling and the oversized black Starck chandelier.
Have a look at the Museum before you eat. It's elegant and not all mumsy cut glass vases and glasses; there's an eclectic collection of "conversation stopping" and "one-off" pieces by designers, who were inspired by the magic of Baccarat. Created in 1764, when Louis XV was king, Baccarat showcases the work of artisans through the centuries. So does French gastronomy, don't you think?
That's probably why the big-boys at Baccarat asked super-chef Guy Martin to take over the kitchens. When he did last year, he put in his second at Grand Vefour, Thomas L'Herisson. Herrison's otherwise engaged for the time being, so Guy Martin and young maverick David Angelot, created the Cristal Room's new Spring menu.
You'll know Angelot. He's cheffed with Bernard Pacaud at Amboisie. "I first came to Paris during my military service and was in the kitchens of Hotel Matignon" (the official residence of the Prime Minister), he explained. He subsequently worked at Jamin, with Christian Le Squer at Pavilon Ledoyen, with the adorable Jean Jaques Jouteaux, and Jean-Paul Arabian at Le Cameleon. "I've also worked at Grand Vefour. So when Guy Martin called me I felt ready for the challenge." Angelot commented.
So what's on the menu?
"I am very influenced by Japanese flavours, not that I've been there yet. But I've worked with the Japanese and admire their incredible flair for flavour, and I'll be putting a lot of focus on vegetables which really turn me on". Angelot says his Master is Pacaud, from whom he learned to keep his menus pure and simple and place the value on the fresh products. A lunch this week proved his point. It began with a light starter of Tourteau parfumé au vinaigre de coquelicot, jus d'herbes. The crab tasted of the ocean, was perfectly seasoned. The main of Saint Pierre poelé sous une croute de Wasabi, mitonée de févettes et jus d'herbes will probably become Angelot's signature. Perfectly cooked, the beans were a crunchy foil to the tender fish, the Wasabi added a discreet, interesting undertone. Cristalline de fraises Gariguette, marmalade sorbet et cremeux was worthy of Marie-Laure de Noailles. Angelot does not feel overwhelmed by the splendour of the maison. He just wants to concentrate on pleasing his clientele and yes, he can.
Cristal Room Baccarat,
11 place des Etats Unis, 16th
Metro: Boissière
T: 01 40 22 11 10
Shut Sunday
Lunch – 3 courses 55€ + A La Carte + wine
or Starter-Main 36€ - Main Dessert 29€
Dinner – Menu Decouverte 99€ + wine or 149€ including wine
A La Carte – average spend: 86€
And if you're reading this in Boston, Guy Martin's exciting restaurant Sensing brings the culinary spirit of his Paris Sensing to Boston's Waterfront. The signature Sensing Snacking Platter is a tasting of six seasonal small dishes, a sophisticated bar snack or a fabulous first course.
And also Le Grand Vefour, Paris's most romantic restaurant:
The San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurant Awards took place at London's Guildhall, 26th April. Talented Rene Redzepi takes the number 1 spot from El Bulli. Redzepi's restaurant, Noma, is in Copenhagen, and together with six of his staff, Redzepi went up to collect their "oscar" wearing T-shirts emblazoned with pictures of Ali the dishwasher who couldn't get a visa (see photo). Nice eh?
So El Bulli's Ferran Adria, who says he's closing soon to re-think his concept, is now No.2 and Heston is down at No. 3. Ducasse is allowed back in at No. 41, French Laundry drops 20 places to No 32. The strangest leap of all must be the wild man of French cuisine Inaki Aizpitarte of Chateaubriand – now at No. 11 he's up 29 places. Go figure!
"French women don't often weigh themselves, preferring to keep track with their hands, eyes, clothes – it's called "zipper syndome", says Mireille Guiliano author of The Frenchwomen Dont Get Fat Cookbook available from www.amazon.com www.frenchwomendontgetfat.com
Michel del Burgo has left Chez La Vielle Adrienne in the 1st. He tells BUZZ that Joel Robuchon made him an offer he couldn't refuse; to add a third star to the two-star Michelin Atelier de Robuchon, Hong Kong. "He's given me a year to do it", says the talented del burgo, who won three etoiles chez Taillevent. "I had the choice between here and the Chevre d'Or, Eze. Let's hope I've made the right choice". Stay tuned folks.
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