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Liza Minnelli lied (at least about NYC vs. Paris)

By John Talbott
New paragraph: “New York, New York?” Unh unh. The truth: If you can make it here (Paris) you can make it anywhere, including New York.

My history and memory, as always, are a bit rusty, but at least in my culinary lifetime, we’ve seen a progression of great chefs or patrons come to Paris from the hinterlands - Ducasse from the Cote d’Azur, Bocuse (at least for demonstrations) from Collonges, near Lyon, Robuchon from Poitiers, Loiseau from Vezelay, Gagnaire from St. Etienne, Arabian from Lille, Darroze from Les Landes (and I wish she’d stayed), Bardet from Tours and the Pourcel boys from Montpellier – well the list goes on.

And for many, most notably Ducasse, Robuchon and Vongerichten (Ok, he came from Strasbourg to Paris via the long way), it’s then on to the UK, Japan, Los Vegas and oh yes – New York. For the Pourcels, Sebastien Demorand, crack reporter for Zurban, estimates they’ve established 52 other outposts so far, but that may be a tad hyperbolic.

However, all this movement and growth makes sense, if you really think about it. A talented chef, trained in restaurants in the south for the most part, (Arabian not withstanding,) makes a name for him/herself, gets a star or two and decides to hit the big time. Like the guys I mentioned in the piece about “You want me to go out where?” e.g., Frechon, Camdeborde, Van Laer and Vigato, where do they go? – Answer: they go downtown (and we’re talking about the 8th not the upper East Side). And the good managers and marketing guys, and I use the latter term with great respect, then can go global.

But Mr. Ebb and Ms. Minnelli, in cuisine, it starts here and New York is but another merit badge, no more glamorous, alas, than Los Vegas.

Moral: “If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere.” Good luck, Coutanceaus.

My favorite of the moment:

Le Cou de la Girafe
7, rue Paul-Baudry, 8th (Metro : St Philippe de Roule)
T: 01 56.88.29.55
Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays
Formula 28 E, Lunch menu of the day 36 E, a la carte 50-60 E.